Master of the pan roast


Making pan roasts at the Oyster Bar, NYCThis pan roast specialist at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station swiftly prepared ours — one lobster, one scallop — and deftly tipped them from the pan into the bowls. Then he got a little steamed himself when no one instantly carried them the few feet to the counter where we sat. He threw his hands up, his face contorted, his torso crumpled, suggesting his work had been diminished. We applauded his ambition, but when the bowls arrived 30 seconds later we had no complaints.


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